Machine Coil
27. Hospital Tape
28. Armature Bar
29. Contact Point (Sterling Silver)
Parts Description
A. Machine Frame (15) - Although many frames look different, they all have these basic features; the jaws in which the needle tube (22) is clamped in (via wing nut (20)). The base of the frame is where the coils are mounted. The spring brace is in the rear and supports the rear binding post and armature bar. The side arm holds the front binding post
B. Machine CoiIs(26) - Steel Core, come in eight or ten wrap(wraps of wire around core) cotton or enamel wrapped wire. These coils act as electro-magnet«. They attach to base with screws (20). Spacing washers (25) ride underneath cores.
C. Machine Springs (I) and (5) - Front spring holds contact point (29). Rear one attaches to armature bar (28) and spring brace on frame with screw and washers (2,3, 4). Provides resilience for up and down needle motion.
D. Armature Bar (28) - Provides steel mass for magnetic pull. Also is link to tattoo needle (21).
E. Front Binding Post( 12) - Holds contact screw (11 )and adjusts for alignment by use of nylon washers. Contact screw can be locked in position by lock screw(13).
F. Rear Binding Post (17) - Provides contact point for clip cord. Adjusts for alignment with washers (8).
G. Capacitor (24) - Usually 10, MFD, 25 volts standard. Can be fitted to any machine to minimize sparking and arcing.
H. Bands (14) - Provide even pressure on needle bar. Should be replaced often,
I. Tubes (22) - Use only Stainless Steel open Sanitary Tjbes. Encases needle and bar (21). Provides good gripping surface.
Side
Side
SPAULDING fr ROGERS ■ QUIGKCHANGE" MACHINE
One more type of machine should be mentioned. The very latest state-of-the-art in tattoo machines is the Spauiding & Rogers "Revolution" machine. Totally different in appearance and operation than the regular tattoo machine, it delivers more efficient needle movement, runs smoother and virtually noiseless and is considerably lighter in weight Also to note is the lack of a steel frame, the Revolution is made of indestructible high-impact nylon plastic and the workings are totally self-contained. A big advantage also is the lack of rubier bands, as this machine utilizes a patented action cam to not only supply movement, but also to securely hold the needle bar. This new machine is changing the tattoo industry and is worth checking out.
The electrical link between the machine and the power supply is the clip cord. One end has two phone jacks for the Power Unit and the other a spring clip connecting device. One hook from the clip cord slips into the hole located in the rear underside top pan of the frame, the other hook goes into the hole located in the rear binding post
Tktioo machines run on direct current. In the beginning, you may want ta use a battery set-tip. They are simple and cheap at first. The drawback is they have to be maintained and charged.
You can get a good Power Unit for less than the price of two batteries. A Power Unit is handy because it can be plugged into the wall socket, and is fairly trouble-free. Excellent units are available on the Market today. Even if a Power Unit is used, a battery set-up is a useful piece of spare equipment to have around.
Also, if you have a ceWar. you may want 10 use two 12 voîî auto batteries and a trickle charger. Ifso, use caution as overcharged batteries are highly explosive?, and you don t want any battery acid around the area of your work,
A rheostat mounted on a bakélite panel provided with connecting posts may be available from your tattoo supply house,
Power Units come in different sizes. Buy the best one that you can afTord, A good power supply is very important.
Rheostat
Footswitch
Ciip cord
Bench mount switchboard
Clip cord
Switch
Footswitch
Footswitch
Work bench
Switch board panel mounted on desk side for easy use
Bench mount switchboard
Clip cord
Rheostat
Switch
Footswitch
Ciip cord
Remove bottom panel of unit, attach corresponding wires to counterparts using alligator clips
Clip cord
Clip cord
Footswitch
POWER UNIT HOOK-UP
D.C. power unit 1A
Jack plug for Spaulding Revolution machine. Do not plug any other machine into this
Footswitch
POWER UNIT HOOK-UP
D.C. power unit 1A
Jack plug for Spaulding Revolution machine. Do not plug any other machine into this

Next, line up the contact point in a direct line over the nipple on the armature bar and tighten. Then line up the contact point on the front spring in a direct line with the contact screw. The rear spring should be snug against the rear screw in most cases-Tighten rear screw. The contact screw points to One o'clock, when you hold up the machine and point the front (tube end) to your left, ft is in this position when it is new, and should stay in this position.
Attach the clip cord to your machine and turn on your power pack. Holding the machine firmly in your tefl hand by the frame, slowly turn the contact screw down (clockwise) to meet the contact point on the front spring. Be careful to only touch the contact screw by the rubber tip or it will shock you. If the rubber tip is missing, you can wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end, or even a rubber band in an emergency.
As you keep the foot pedal pushed down, slowly turn the contact screw down to meet the contact point. Your machine will start to run when the contacts get close enough together to make a circuit. A general rule of thumb is that the gap between the shader points when you push down on the armature bar is the thickness of a nickel. The gap between the points on the liner should be about the thickness of a dime. Nickel shader, dime liner. This distance will change slightly with each machine and with the shape the springs are in. If they are weak, you can compensate by turning down the contact screw a bit. not too much. This measure has to be done with the machine off and the armature bar held in the down position. On a machine with heavy-duty coils, this measurement may be doubled. Another way to do it, is to eyeball the distance the armature bar is travelling, as the machine runs, while you adjust the contact screw. When the distance the armature bar is travelling up and down is about the same distance as a dime or a nickel, depending on which machine you are tuning at the time, then you are right.
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